Some road trips are about destinations. Others are about endurance. This one was about both.Seven days from Picardy into the volcanic heart of Auvergne, through the forests of Limousin, and back again—a ride shaped as much by weather as by landscapes.
It was also a test. I had just fitted a Bastille Atelier handmade leather seat, crafted in France, and wanted to see how it would hold up against real-world conditions: mist, rain, sudden sun, and long mountain curves.
Day 1 – Picardy → Volvic
Riding south into Volvic, the motorcycle trip began with a long run on the motorway—the first time my motorcycle engine had really opened up for such an extended stretch. The roar of the engine, the steady speed, and the horizon rushing past felt exhilarating, setting a thrilling tone for the days ahead.
After leaving the motorway behind, the ride transitioned into gentle climbs and rolling roads. Pastures, volcanic hills, and quaint villages made for a visual feast. The town itself, famous for its volcanic water, offered a perfect first stop to stretch legs and enjoy local flavors.
Evening brought a calm wind through the streets, and settling into the local campsite offered a preview of the adventures ahead—mountain passes, hidden lakes, and unpredictable weather.
Day 2 – Volvic → La Banne d’Ordanche
The morning ride towards La Banne d’Ordanche included a stop at Orcival Cathedral, a quiet Romanesque gem perched above the town. Roads climbed steadily, curves tightening as the mountains rose. Rain teased the journey, sometimes falling in sheets, sometimes in light drizzle, shaping the mood with misty atmospheres and glistening roads.
Arriving at the refuge, the fog and clouds wrapped the building like a soft shroud. The refuge offered shelter from the weather and a taste of mountain hospitality, with hearty meals and the chance to dry gear and relax. The next morning promised more twists and panoramas across the Massif.
Day 3 – La Banne → Massif Twists → Chambon-sur-Lac
After the morning mist lifted, the road unfolded into a maze of twisting passes through the heart of the Massif Central. Every corner revealed new panoramas: dark volcanic ridges, rolling green valleys, and tiny hamlets perched on hillsides. The day demanded focus, leaning into curves, shifting through gears, and savouring the thrill of roads few riders see.
Small stops punctuated the ride: viewpoints over hidden lakes, quiet chapels tucked into the mountains, and local bakeries where the smell of fresh bread felt like a reward for mastering the slopes. Time seemed to stretch as the bike and rider became part of the landscape, flowing with the contours of the Massif.
By evening, I reached Chambon-sur-Lac, a peaceful town nestled at the foot of the mountains, and finally settled into the campsite. It was here that I noticed a small nail lodged in the rear tire. Cue instant panic: a week of rides ahead, and this little intruder threatened to cut it short.
I called the only two motorcycle garages within a 30 km radius. Finally, after a long endless hour, one picked up—and on the other end was a saint disguised as a mechanic. He could sense my emotional distress, chuckled at my dramatics, and said, “Relax, swing by tomorrow morning, and we’ll sort it out.”
The next morning, I detoured 20 km to Exclusive Motorcycles, where the nail was removed with surprising ease. It had gone in sideways, leaving the tire’s integrity intact. Crisis averted, journey back on, and the ride continued toward Bort-les-Orgues, ready for more twisting mountain roads and dramatic views.
Day 4 – Chambon-sur-Lac → Bort-les-Orgues
Riding out from Chambon-sur-Lac, the roads opened into high country passes, lined with pine forests and valleys that dipped sharply below. The climb to viewpoints offered breathtaking vistas of volcanic ridges and glimmering lakes hidden in the folds of the terrain.
Arriving at Bort-les-Orgues, the basalt cliffs rose majestically, their geometric columns slicing through the landscape. The lake below reflected sunlight in sudden bursts after passing clouds. Pausing to admire the dam and surrounding scenery, it felt as though nature itself had sculpted a cathedral of stone and water.
Day 5 – Bort-les-Orgues → Lac de Vassivière
The motorcycle trip towards Lac de Vassivière was softer in rhythm but equally enchanting. Forests thickened, roads meandered alongside streams, and light rain alternated with warm sun breaking through the canopy.
The lake itself was vast and serene, a striking contrast to the high-energy curves of the past days. Islands dotted the water, and the shoreline offered quiet spaces to pause, breathe, and reflect. Camping lakeside brought calm after days of continuous twists and turns, giving the body and mind a much-needed respite.
Day 6 – Lac de Vassivière → Rochechouart
From Vassivière, the journey moved toward Rochechouart, a town marked by an ancient meteorite impact. Roads dipped and rose through gentle hills, weaving through forests and open pastures. Arriving in town, the contrast between its calm streets and the violent geological history added a sense of awe.
The castle-turned-museum illustrated the cosmic story of the region, merging geology, history, and art. For a motorcyclist, though, the experience was about riding roads that traced an ancient scar on the earth—a humbling reminder of time and scale.
Day 7 – Rochechouart → Picardy
The final day was a return to Picardy, riding out of Limousin back home. After a week of shifting weather, volcanic peaks, and lakeside calm, the journey home offered a chance to reflect on the contrasts: mist and sun, mountains and lakes, challenge and serenity.
Through it all, the Bastille Atelier leather seat held up to every challenge: rain, mist, sun, endless curves. Handmade, elegant, and solid, it proved what French craftsmanship means when tested on the open road.
This ride was proof that travel isn’t about waiting for perfect conditions—it’s about finding beauty in whatever the road brings. From volcanic ridges to tranquil lakes, from meteor-scarred towns to misty refuges, the journey was a mosaic of contrasts, tied together by the resilience of both rider and machine.
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